Geek wrote:Shorted cap?
I've had 'em right from the box that way as a manufacturing boo-boo
Not unless is shorted itself out over time....
Worked flawlessly for I'm thinking, hundreds of hrs.
Geek wrote:Shorted cap?
I've had 'em right from the box that way as a manufacturing boo-boo
20to20 wrote:wungun wrote:If I pull the tubes from om the Poseidon board, is there anything on it that would cause the issue that would still be functioning?
Pulling the K line is easy enough I guess....desoldering the can cap is something else altogether! Lol
1 step at a time I guess...
Desoldering the can cap (Q- cap) may not be necessary. Since I don't know which lug you have added the JJ caps to I'm assuming you could use them by disconnecting them from where they are now and tie them to the "K" pad on the board. Since you've replaced the 6.8K resistor you can just lift the output end off the Q-cap to make the new connection and disable that one Q-cap lug.
The board itself has a resonably high resistance path so a lower than expected resistance at the "K" pad would be a good clue as to the source of current draw. Could be just an errant solder splash...
wungun wrote:The extra V overhead is just marketing hype I think.
wungun wrote:My theory being, they are probably the same shitty can...
And I added CL80 thermistor's to each amp to help take the inrush.
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