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Shannon,

Cool! Thanks for all the info both on the poseidon and eiclones. I have enough parts to mod the eiclones. I'll let you know about the sockets this evening. I can send them to you (I think I bought 12 since I'm going to build 3 Mark III clones for L-C-R amps for home theater) and you could return some when you send out the boards. More on that later.

I live in a condo in Fairport (own a house in Peoria, AZ) so I can't rattle the walls most of the time here. But sometimes my neighbors are gone so watch out! The eiclones do an admirable job of shaking the place already. But I would like a little more power for some long term plans I have to be in another location while away from home!

Can't wait to see the new boards!

Hi Newbee here. I just finished a few books on tube audio and I would like to give it a try. I have been repairing solid state items for years, but would like to venture into tubes. I think for my first build I would like to try a pair of Mark III clones. A few questions for everyone...1) how do I order the Poseidon boards? 2) Would the transformers from Triode be a good idea? 3) The parts list for the Poseidon, is it complete for a build of one unit? 4) I have Magneplanars, do think the Mark IIIs would do some justice? I currently biamp them with powerful SS stuff, but I think the Mark IIIs would provide enough power as long as it is not too loud. I also was thinking of biamping with my ST-70 (as long as I could level match them).

All feedback and info is welcome!

Thanks,

Dave

Can't say for sure about your magneplanar question, though a good friend tells me he used to run a pair of maggies with a Marantz 8B - similar output to the Dyna ST-70 - so Mk III's would be adequate. I have run my Mk III's into Dynao A-25's and other similar speakers with great results - but they don't have enough oomph for really low-efficiency speakers (like Speakerlab Super 7's) - that takes a high powered amp.

Can say for sure about bi-amping with ST-70's - it's a great approach to run mids and tweeters off the two channels of an ST-70, one each for left and right. You may spend a while tweaking the levels, and might find that a sub is a welcome addition, depending on what kind of material you prefer.

skidave wrote:A few questions for everyone...1) how do I order the Poseidon boards? 2) Would the transformers from Triode be a good idea? 3) The parts list for the Poseidon, is it complete for a build of one unit? 4) I have Magneplanars, do think the Mark IIIs would do some justice?

Hi skidave,

1) I should have the boards in a week and a half. They'll be $49/pair plus shipping.
2) The few transformers I've seen from Triode have been fine. But I wonder about their transformer support now that Ned is gone, so folks might try him direct: admin@tubezone.net
3) For the PCB, yes, it is complete for one board. All the rest is almost complete, but definitely BETA. As Ed discovered, the octal sockets listed are the wrong size. A couple items are missing (screws, grommet, etc.). I'll post the parts list from the Mark III manual - hopefully Gary Kaufman won't mind!
4) Listening material and living conditions can mean a lot here, but the Mark III's rarely disappoint.

BTW, welcome to tubes!

Shannon

I'll definitely want a pair of them Yellow_Light_Colorz_PDT_03

The Poseidon Adventure commences Yellow_Light_Colorz_PDT_11

Shannon,

As I've said - sign me up for 3. I'll paypal you ASAP when they come in!

Hey, Shannon, why did you fly R7 on the prototype?

Ty_Bower wrote:Hey, Shannon, why did you fly R7 on the prototype?

Hi Ty - you've lost me. You mean R7 (part of a tuning step circuit) on the Poseidon board Rev Dash? The green boards and the red boards are identical, I believe. Now I did do a MKIII board a long time ago, but it is a different design and one I didn't release - a true prototype.

Sorry. I should have provided a link:
http://www.diytube.com/phpBB2/viewtopic ... sc&start=3

These photos show a green board. I assumed it was some kind of prototype. You can see in the first photo in your post that R7 is way above the board.

You may have already answered my question. If the value of R7 is critical to tuning the circuit, you may have left the leads long so it would be easy to unsolder that part and swap in a different value.