Geek wrote:Hi,
On my board:
- Leave out RV2 and R16.
- Jumper R14 and R15.
Connecting:
- Run either side of CN2 to Shannon's Poseidon board "H"
Adjust bias with my board's RV1 and balance with Poseidon's R15
Cheers!
Worked like a charm, thanks Gregg!
Finally finished one of the amps today ... and it sounds great right from the start! The amps came to me with new original design driver boards with some nice caps on them, but they didn't sound very good hooked up to my Mirage M-290is speakers. The difference in sound quality is astounding and worth the effort!
I built the Tubezone version of the Poseidon using the 5751/12BH7A combo. Most of the resistors are Dale 1% RN65 Mil Spec metal films*. I have some used EH KT88's and a Sovtek GZ34 with I use for start ups in case of an issue. I ran that for a few hours and it really sounded clear with great range from top to bottom, And it's dead quiet with my CJ11L preamp. Then I put in the Mullard GZ34 and new production gently used (300hrs) Gold Lion KT88's ... and I have to be honest: the EH's sounded better. The GL's sound compressed, rolled off at top and bottom, slightly sibilant, and didn't have the detail that the EH's brought out. But I'll give them some more time to let the new passive parts break in.
*I have a Bruce Moore Audio Design Companion 2B+ preamp and
every resistor but two are Dale Mil Spec Metal Films, so don't be afraid to use them in your projects thinking they'll sound like $hit. Bruce Moore has designed some of the greatest sounding tube preamps under names such as Audible Illusions, MFA, etc.