Cracked radiators are a drag. You can only stick so many eggs in them before you need to finally install a new one. Sump pumps are a pain too. Zoellers are expensive, but mine's been running strong. I ought to upload the video of it running. Four thousand gallons an hour is a lot of water...
Even three volts across the 10 ohm cathode resistor is nearly one watt of power dissipated in that resistor. Seven volts would be 5 watts. Are you sure you've got your meter on the right scale? Those 10 ohm cathode resistors should (must!) be rated for 1/4 watt to protect against exactly this kind of over current situation. You want those resistors to burn out if the power tubes are pulling massively way too much current.
Before I install any tubes at all, I power up the amp and check voltages at F, G, and H. If you have a digital meter, attach the negative (black) probe of your meter to ground. Probe F, G, and H with the red probe. You've already indicated you see -73 volts at H which is a good thing. You should be able to get the same voltage at F and G as well. If you don't, stop here and figure out what is wrong before you install any tubes.
No voltage at pin 1 of V1 and V2 is odd. It suggests you poof'd something somewhere along the power supply. I'll assume pin 6 of V2 is in the same condition, as it should be at the same voltage as pin 1. I could believe the rectifier gave up, rolled over, and died. That would explain the lack of voltage on the driver tubes but then why is there voltage still present at the 6550s?