diytube.com

Cool, as far as Triode, my payment went through this time. I must have goofed it up before.

As far as the 12BH7's, I have 12 6CG7's that I have accuried. I guess I should get them tested and make a decision from there.

The 6CG7 is a lot better than the 12AU7 right?

The 12AU7 is a very popular, but not always the best audio tube.


6CG7 (re-connect so that the filament power goes to pins 4 and 5, pin 9 is either not used or is an internal shield)

6CG7 (or 6FQ7/6CG7) is more like a 6SN7 but the characteristics aren't so different from 12AU7 so no resistor changes should be necessary.

The 6GU7 is a 6V version of 12BH7

/ed B in NH

Picked up some more soder today. I should be getting the rest of the parts in tomarrow.

Another question I had was if I could use a chassis mount socket for the board?

I think the Poseidon will work best with chassis mount sockets for the power tubes (KT88/6550). I'd probably stick with PCB mount sockets for the AF amp and PI tubes (12AX7/12AU7).

I bought some Auricaps and Hovlands for the board. They both a red on one end and a black or green on the other side.

For C1, black goes to the 7 pin of V2?

For C4, black goes to Pin 1 & 6 and red to F?

For C5, black goes to Pin 1 & 6 and red tpo G?

Thanks

JW34 wrote:I bought some Auricaps and Hovlands for the board. They both a red on one end and a black or green on the other side.

For C1, black goes to the 7 pin of V2?

For C4, black goes to Pin 1 & 6 and red to F?

For C5, black goes to Pin 1 & 6 and red tpo G?

Thanks

Red is the 'input' and black is the 'output'. So:

For C1, black goes to the 7 pin of V2.
For C4, red goes to Pin 1 & 6 and black to F.
For C5, red goes to Pin 1 & 6 and black to G.

Cool! I'm trying here. Glad to see I got something right. I'm doing this project to learn......well, to get a better sound to, Duh.

Instead of starting a new thread I'll ask this here.

I'm working on this project (Mark III rebuild) and want to have a Triode switch added to it. The problem I have is that the only drawing I saw for this on another forum looks wrong, or I am reading it wrong.

I know how to hard wire it inot Triode, but how do you do it using a DPDT switch?

Could somone draw this up and post it? I'm sorry to be a bother.

Thanks

JW34 wrote: The problem I have is that the only drawing I saw for this on another forum looks wrong, or I am reading it wrong.

Could you sniff out that post again? We'll confirm or deny it.

This is what I found:

http://www.audioasylum.com/forums/dynac ... 11889.html

The bottom link is my layout but more detailed. Is this right? Also, in the current configuration, it would be in Pentode correct?

http://jason43.myphotoalbum.com/view_ph ... d=IMG_1799[/img]

Looks OK.

So this is how I want to mount my chassis.

http://jason43.myphotoalbum.com/view_ph ... d=IMG_1803

1. Transformers in back. ( Power on left, output on right)

2. PCB mounted underneath (On right looking down from top as in picture)

3. GZ34 socket farthest to left.

4. KT88's to the right of the GZ34.

5. On/Off switch front left in front of GZ34.

6. Triode switch ( In front or back between the KT88's)

* Does anyone forsee any problems with the mounting positions?

I think it would look cool having all five tubes up front glowing on the same plane.

That should work out fine Jason.
Take care to dress the 115 VAC switch wiring in the
corner of the chassis away from any low level audio
and you should be good.

Looking forward to some more pix !

... tom